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SwimSolar
Guide

Your pool is too cold. Start here.

Four short checks that tell you which of four different problems you have, before you spend anything.

By Scooter M.Published How we work out every number
Ranked

Quick picks

One product per diagnosis. Take the measurements first — the wrong fix for the right problem is money wasted.

#ProductBest forPrice
1
No photo
Fixes problem 1

Sun2Solar 1200 Series Crystal Clear Solar Cover

Losing heat overnight. The commonest diagnosis and the cheapest fix.

Most pools, most budgets — the default recommendation
2
No photo
Fixes problem 2

SmartPool SunHeater S601P Solar Heating System

Never collecting enough. Adds heat with no running cost.

Adding real heat with no running cost, on a sunny site
3
No photo
Fixes problem 3

Hayward HeatPro Pool Heat Pump

You want a temperature on demand rather than whatever the weather gave you.

Lowest running cost per degree when you want real temperature control
4
No photo
Fixes the fix

Blue Wave Solar Cover Reel

If problem 1 is diagnosed and the cover still does not go on, this is the actual blocker.

Any inground pool with a cover you are not using enough

#ad We earn a commission if you buy through this link, at no extra cost to you. It never changes the ranking. How this site is funded. Prices last checked September 2, 2026.

Four measurements, ten minutes

“My pool is cold” is four different problems with four different fixes, and buying the wrong one is expensive. These checks tell you which you have.

Check 1: your actual temperature, measured properly

Read a foot down, away from the return jets, ideally after the pump has run for twenty minutes. Not at the surface. After a sunny afternoon the top layer can be several degrees warmer than the water underneath — our arithmetic puts the top foot at around 3°F per hour of sun against 0.66°F for the whole pool. A surface reading flatters the pool and hides the problem.

Compare against DOE’s published ranges: 78 to 80°F for active swimming, 82 to 84°F for recreational use.

Check 2: your overnight drop

Read at dusk. Read again at dawn. The difference is the single most diagnostic number available to you.

Check 3: your daily peak

Read at 6pm on a sunny day. Is the pool ever warm enough, even at its best?

Check 4: the wind

Is the pool in an open, exposed position? DOE puts a 7 mph surface breeze at a 300% increase in energy consumption, which is large enough to be the entire answer on its own.

Now diagnose

What your readings mean
What you foundThe problemWhat fixes it
Warm enough at 6pm, several degrees down by dawnLosing heat overnightA cover. Cheapest fix, biggest effect.
Never warm enough, even at 6pm on a sunny dayNot collecting enough heatSolar panels or a heater. A cover alone will not solve it.
Fine some days, cold on othersYou want control, not more heatA heat pump or gas heater. Weather-dependent heat cannot be scheduled.
Exposed site, windy eveningsConvective and evaporative lossA windbreak, then a cover.
Reading 82°F and it still feels coldAir temperature, or a surface readingRe-measure properly. Then consider a higher setpoint.

Problem 1: you are losing it overnight

The commonest diagnosis by a wide margin. Your pool collects perfectly adequate heat during the day and sheds it before morning.

What that is costing you
20,000 gal x 8.33 x your overnight drop= BTU lost
x 70% (DOE's evaporation share)= what a cover can address
At a 3°F drop= $9.92 a night on gas

Buy a cover. It pays for itself in weeks.

And if the cover still would not go on every night, buy a reel with it — an unused cover saves exactly nothing.

Problem 2: you never collect enough

The pool is cold even at its daily peak. A cover will help you keep what you have, but you do not have enough to keep. You need to add heat: solar panels if your site suits them and you can accept the sun’s schedule, or a heater if you cannot.

Problem 3: you want control

The pool is fine on good days and cold on others, and the thing you actually want is a temperature you choose. That is a heater question, and it comes down to speed against running cost.

Problem 4: it is the wind

An exposed pool in a breezy yard can be losing four times what a sheltered one loses. Before buying equipment, try a screen on the prevailing side for a fortnight and re-measure. It is the cheapest experiment on this page.

Problem 5: expectations

If the water genuinely measures 82°F and still feels cold, the water is not the problem. Water pulls heat from skin roughly twenty-five times faster than air does, so the same pool feels warm on a hot still day and cold on a cool breezy evening. Either accept it, or accept the 10 to 30% per degree it costs to go higher.

The order to spend in

  1. Free: windbreak, pump timing, lower setpoint. Re-measure.
  2. Cover, around $100. Re-measure.
  3. Reel, if the cover is not going on. Re-measure.
  4. Heat, sized to the gap that is left — which by now is much smaller than it looked.

Every step reduces the size of the heater you eventually need, and the heater is the expensive part.

In full

Every pick, in detail

What each one publishes, what is good and bad about it, and — the section this category usually omits — what we could not judge without owning one.

No photoWe have no photograph of this exact model that we can honestly publish
1. Fixes problem 1

Sun2Solar 1200 Series Crystal Clear Solar Cover

The value pick, and the one whose logic actually holds up. A clear cover transmits more sunlight into the body of the pool instead of absorbing it at the surface, and 12 mil is the point where lifespan stops being the limiting factor. Bob Vila measured this and the 16-mil blue at the same 4 to 5 degrees in an hour, so you are paying less for the same measured result and giving up some years of service life.

Best for Most pools, most budgets — the default recommendation

What the manufacturer publishes
Thickness12 milThe manufacturer publishes no retrievable specification sheet; figure is as listed at retail.Retail listing
ColorClearRetail listing
Stated lifespan3 to 4 years for the 12-mil clear tierSwim University's published figure for 12-mil clear covers generally.Retail listing
Bubble sideBubbles face the waterPublished standard
Daytime solar gain

4 to 5 degrees F in one hour

Claimed by Bob Vila, measured across all covers in their group. Conditions: One hour under 2pm sun on 89 to 92 degree F days. Source

What is good
  • Clear transmits more light into the water instead of stopping it at the surface
  • 12 mil is the sweet spot: real service life without 16-mil bulk
  • Cheaper than the 16-mil tier with no measured heating penalty
What is not
  • Shorter published lifespan tier than 16 mil
  • A clear cover shows algae and debris more obviously, which some people dislike
What we could not assess
  • Whether clear genuinely outlasts or under-lasts blue in the same thickness
  • Real-world tear resistance at a pool with rough edges
  • How much the clear material clouds over a season of UV

These need a unit in hand across a season. We do not have one, so we do not have an opinion worth printing on them.

Check price on Amazon

#ad We earn a commission if you buy through this link, at no extra cost to you. It never changes the ranking. How this site is funded. Prices last checked September 2, 2026.

No photoWe have no photograph of this exact model that we can honestly publish
2. Fixes problem 2

SmartPool SunHeater S601P Solar Heating System

Solar panels that plumb into the return line and heat the water with sunlight rather than fuel, which puts their running cost at zero — the only entry in the whole heating category where that is true. The trade is that you cannot dial in a temperature: the panels deliver what the sun gives them on the day, and on a cloudy week they deliver very little.

Best for Adding real heat with no running cost, on a sunny site

What the manufacturer publishes
TypeRoof or ground-mounted solar collector panels, plumbed inlineThe manufacturer publishes no retrievable specification sheet; figure is as listed at retail.Retail listing
Running cost$0 in fuelThe circulation pump is already running for filtration. There is no additional fuel or electricity cost attributable to the heat.Our arithmetic
Cumulative equilibrium gain

As much as 15 degrees F

Claimed by Bob Vila, describing the S601P. Conditions: Stated as requiring ample sunlight; no time period given. Source

Note the phrasing: with ample sunlight it can boost temperature by as much as 15 degrees. That is a cumulative ceiling reached over days of good sun, not a figure you will see in an afternoon.

What is good
  • Zero fuel cost, forever — nothing else in this category can say that
  • No combustion, no gas line, no additional electrical service
  • Panels can be added to as the budget allows
What is not
  • You get the sun's schedule, not yours
  • Needs real unshaded mounting area, and plumbing work to install
  • Does nothing on a cold cloudy week, which is when you most want it
What we could not assess
  • Actual heat output at your latitude, roof pitch and shading
  • How the panel material survives a decade of UV and freeze cycles
  • Whether the included fittings suit your existing plumbing

These need a unit in hand across a season. We do not have one, so we do not have an opinion worth printing on them.

Check price on Amazon

#ad We earn a commission if you buy through this link, at no extra cost to you. It never changes the ranking. How this site is funded. Prices last checked September 2, 2026.

No photoWe have no photograph of this exact model that we can honestly publish
3. Fixes problem 3

Hayward HeatPro Pool Heat Pump

If you are heating a pool with electricity, this is the shape of machine to do it with. A heat pump moves heat instead of making it, and at the assumptions we publish it delivers a million BTU into the water for about a fifth of what an electric resistance heater costs to deliver the same. It is slower than gas and it fades as the air gets colder, which is exactly when you want it — that trade is the whole decision.

Best for Lowest running cost per degree when you want real temperature control

What the manufacturer publishes
TypeAir-source heat pumpThe manufacturer publishes no retrievable specification sheet; figure is as listed at retail.Retail listing
Rating conventionRated by BTU/hr OUTPUTThis is the trap in the category. Gas heaters are rated by fuel INPUT, heat pumps by heat OUTPUT. A 140,000 BTU heat pump and a 140,000 BTU gas heater do not deliver the same heat.Published standard
Cost per million BTU deliveredAbout $10.75 at our published assumptionsUS average residential electricity at 18.34 cents/kWh (EIA, June 2026) and an assumed COP of 5.0. Both are substitutable on our running-cost calculator.Our arithmetic
What is good
  • Cheapest running cost per delivered BTU of any controllable heater
  • No gas line, no combustion, no flue
  • Holds a set temperature rather than depending on the weather
What is not
  • Slow — expect most of a day to move a full-size pool ten degrees
  • Efficiency falls with air temperature, so it is weakest in the shoulder season
  • High purchase price against a gas heater of comparable output
What we could not assess
  • The COP this specific unit achieves at your conditions
  • Compressor and control-board longevity
  • Noise at the distance your deck actually sits from it

These need a unit in hand across a season. We do not have one, so we do not have an opinion worth printing on them.

Check price on Amazon

#ad We earn a commission if you buy through this link, at no extra cost to you. It never changes the ranking. How this site is funded. Prices last checked September 2, 2026.

No photoWe have no photograph of this exact model that we can honestly publish
4. Fixes the fix

Blue Wave Solar Cover Reel

A reel is the single highest-leverage purchase in this whole category and almost nobody frames it that way. Every DOE saving figure assumes the cover is on the pool when the pool is not in use. A cover that takes two people and five minutes comes off on Friday and goes back on in October. A reel turns that into thirty seconds alone, which is the difference between the savings existing and not.

Best for Any inground pool with a cover you are not using enough

What the manufacturer publishes
TypeWheeled above-ground-style reel for inground and above-ground useThe manufacturer publishes no retrievable specification sheet; figure is as listed at retail.Retail listing
Why it mattersConverts a two-person five-minute job into a one-person thirty-second jobOur framing, not a manufacturer claim. The published savings all assume the cover is actually on.Our arithmetic
What is good
  • Turns the cover into something you will genuinely use daily
  • Keeps the cover off the ground, which is where covers get damaged
  • Wheels, so it moves out of the way
What is not
  • Costs a real fraction of what the cover itself costs
  • Takes up deck space permanently
  • Assembly is fiddly on every reel in this category
What we could not assess
  • How the tube and hardware hold up outdoors across seasons
  • Whether the width range covers your pool without a wobble
  • Assembly quality and hardware fit

These need a unit in hand across a season. We do not have one, so we do not have an opinion worth printing on them.

Check price on Amazon

#ad We earn a commission if you buy through this link, at no extra cost to you. It never changes the ranking. How this site is funded. Prices last checked September 2, 2026.

FAQ

Questions people actually ask

Why is my pool so cold?
Usually one of four things: it loses heat overnight (measure dusk to dawn — a cover fixes this), it never collects enough (measure the 6pm peak — you need to add heat), the site is windy (DOE puts a 7 mph breeze at a 300% increase in energy use), or the water is fine and the air is cold. The measurements tell you which.
How do I warm up my pool quickly?
Quickly means a heater, and how quickly is your heater’s delivered output divided into gallons x 8.33 x the degrees you want. Free things that help while it runs: cover the pool during the heat-up, and heat during the day rather than overnight.
Should I buy a cover or a heater for a cold pool?
Measure your overnight drop first. If the pool is warm at 6pm and cold by dawn, a cover fixes the actual problem for a fraction of the price. If it is never warm enough even at its daily peak, a cover has nothing to keep and you need to add heat.
Sources

Every URL above was fetched and returned content on the date shown. Where a figure is ours rather than somebody else’s, the arithmetic is on the page and on the methodology page. If you find an error in it, we would genuinely like to know.

More on this
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How fast a pool loses heat

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Keeping a pool warm overnight

The specific problem of overnight heat loss: what causes it, what each fix is worth, and the order to try them in.

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How to heat a pool

The complete walkthrough: what your pool actually needs in BTU, every heating option priced per delivered million BTU, and the order to try them in.

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The ideal pool temperature

DOE's recommended ranges for swimming and for lounging, why they differ, and the 10-to-30%-per-degree figure that makes the setpoint the biggest lever you own.

Rolled blue sheeting material photographed outdoors
covers

Solar pool covers worth buying

Ranked on the specifications that actually differ between covers — thickness tier and published lifespan — because the only hands-on test in this category found no heating difference at all.

Steam rising from warm water into cool air
heating

Solar cover vs pool heater

A hundred-dollar cover against a three-thousand-dollar heater, and the measurement that tells you which half of the problem you actually have.